Central & South American Adventures

Which moment marks the beginning of your adventure?  From first arriving at the airport, arriving your first destination, or somewhere between? Perhaps, as Theroux suggests, "from the second you wake up you are headed for the foreign place, and each step (....) brings you closer."

The second I woke up

My first shower in Mexico. More of  a dribble than a shower.  In Mexico, as in other countries, toilet paper is placed in a receptacle rather than flushed. I have visions of mistakenly flushing, causing wide spread flooding onto the streets.

Our goal for today - to use public transport to get to the pyramids. We quite easily located the  bus stop. No actual  stop - more a vicinity in which buses tend to respond to vigorous hand waving. Caught a local bus to the northern bus depot and a second bus to the pyramids. Spent much of the day wandering the ruins circa 200 BC through to 720 AD. Although there were a lot of people it didn’t feel crowded. Pedallers abound, selling their wares to tourists. The most annoying item, a whistle that creates the growl of a jaguar, proved very popular judging by the frequency of loud piercing calls.

The symmetry, straight lines and scale of the city given the tecnology available at the time, is amazing. Built pre Spanish invasion, it's interesting that societies on opposite sides of the world, independently found similar solutions to problems. of ventilation, sanitation, water storage etc.

Returning proved a little more challenging as there are so many public transport systems and not all accept cash, our only currency. A kindly driver let us on without paying thanks to a local who appealed on our behalf. Very very few people speak English.

Lisa and I began our daily search for a perfect morning coffee. This morning we found it. A small cafe on Avenida (our street. Unfortunately the sun didn’t reach it this early but worth donning the puffer jacket for a good coffee. We wandered to the Art Deco (building) and learned that the final performance of the current ballet offering was at 9pm that evening. An opportunity to see the Mexican national ballet company - we splurged.

We haven’t yet braved a public toilet, preferring to get a coffee somewhere and use their facilities.

We caught the metro and then a bus to Frida Kahlo’s house. We wandered through a park while waiting for our designated time window and then sat at a cafe. Red wine in Mexico is served chilled.

I was disappointed. Having already seen a Frida Kahlo exhibition in New Zealand, I’d hoped to see her house the way it was when she lived there. Most of the house was set up as a gallery featuring artwork I’d already seen. The courtyard garden was wonderful though.

We returned the same way we came, meeting Malidia and her mother at the ‘bus stop’. Malidia went to University in Quebec and so had great French and pretty good English. We talked about Christmas and how seriously Mexicans took this celebration, lasting a whole week rather than a single day. There are whole shops devoted to selling Christmas paraphernalia and street stalls selling all things Christmas.

Dinner at a proper restaurant. My first tamale! Delicious! Ate too much but enjoyed the splurge. On to the ballet - unlike any ballet I’ve ever seen. More a series of traditional folk dances with classical Mexican music. Wonderful - but NOT ballet. Not a single pirouette to be seen. Walked home and packed ready for an early start the next day.

Up at 6am. We’re braving public transport to get to the airport. Risky. Anything could happen. Fortune was on our side again. We didn’t have enough coinage for the journey but again, the driver let us on the bus. One bus ride all the way to the airport for 8 pesos (< 5 cents) as opposed to US$30 for a taxi. Checked in and proceeded to ‘security’ where my walking poles were confiscated. Given that checking my luggage would have cost over $200, it seemed worth the risk. An uneventful flight to Cuba. Even from the plane, Cuba looked out of this world. Certainly outside anything I’ve experienced before. Tropical. We didn’t have all the  required paperwork but made sufficient nuisance of ourselves that eventually we were allowed to proceed through immigration and another security check - in case we’d somehow acquired something nefarious during the flight. Perhaps just a lack of trust of  countries ‘outside’ Cuba?

We exchanged money to CUP (Cuban pesos) at the airport. Big mistake. All ‘government’ bodies (including banks) only exchange at half the going exchange rate. Fortunately we didn’t exchange too much cash and learned a hard lesson quickly. A lovely woman at the SIM card counter organised a taxi for us and we had a pleasant 40 minute ride to old Havana and checked into our apartment.

A very lazy and late start to our first day proper in Cuba. I’ve been sick for a few days now and unable to sleep with persistent cough and congestion. Finally leaving the apartment just before midday, having organised to visit Pablo the following day, we Walked the promenade by the waterfront, breakfasted, then booked a bus to Trinidad (Cuba) for the day after tomorrow. Wandered past beautiful buildings to Veija plaza where we enjoyed soaking up the atmosphere while sipping mohitas in the afternoon sunshine. We wandered the cobbled streets in the vague direction of our apartment. A short nap before heading out to dinner at a local cafe. We learned quite a bit about Cuba from a random person in the street (who then hit us up for money) and our waiter. The former ruing the demise of Fidel and then Raul Castro, when families could put food on the table. Although still communist, the current leader appears to favour capitalism when it comes to the economy. No welfare state here. Our waiter introduced us to local foods - manga, plantains and local rum. Unlike Mexico, Christmas seems to be a non-event in Cuba. Few Christmas decorations, no hype and nothing closes on Christmas Day. Business as usual. Is communism the antithesis of religion? Dinner was followed by ice cream and bed.

It rained heavily during the night but this morning is warm and bright. I’m sitting on our balcony in the early morning, pondering non-Christmas in Cuba. There is not a single decoration in sight. No buzz of excitement. We did see a window featuring a manger setting while exploring yesterday. We’ll have to ask Pablo about it.

There is a salsa dance class in progress across the way. Music is everywhere. Not the canned music thumping from every bar as in Mexico City, but guitar and voice.

Another observation is that it seems that more people speak English here compared to Mexico City. Smoking is also more prevalent here. Infact, I saw very few people smoking in Mexico City. No vaping or vape shops in either city.

Following our morning homage to the coffee gods, we walked to the waterfront and found a taxi to take us to Fusterlandia. Named after José Rodríguez Fuster, a Cuban ceramists and painter, Fusterlandia is the name given to his home and neighborhood which he has transformed into a public work of art influenced by Gaudi.

We walked a busy road in the suburbs till we found somewhere to brunch while working out how to use the local iterate of Uber. The selected driver phones to confirm the ride, address and price. Tricky with only have a smattering of basic Spanish vocab. Despite our limitations we were quickly on our way to visit Pablo Mendez, a local musician and friend of Lisa's family. Pablo moved to Cuba from the US at fourteen and has lived there ever since. We spent a very pleasant few hours finding out about political, economic and social issues in Cuba. More to follow.

Another 'Uber' back to our Airbnb in the historic centre to excnnge money to local currency before leaving Havana tomorrow. CUP have many smaller denominational notes. Our 'stash' of these notes (although not worth much) looked like we'd robbed a bank. While 1, 3, and 5 peso coins exist, they're a rarity. 

We wandered out for dinner, the typical Cuban fare of rice and black beans, grilled vegetables (and pork) and then home to pack ready for another early departure.

Much of today spent getting from Havana to Trinidad. We sat on our balcony waiting for the bus to pick us up. A shuttle bus eventually arrived and an hour of horns and hurtling madness ensued as the remainder of the passengers were picked up. We eventually left the narrow labyrinths and headed south-east toward Trinidad. There is not a lot to be said about the 5 hour journey. Suffice it to say, I will never complain about the state of Northland roads again! It was great to see different topography, agriculture and rural lifestyles. 

We arrived mid afternoon, rested and then explored the local neighbourhood. Dinner and annearly night.

Our apartment was lovely. Traditional, with high ceilings, stone floor and central courtyard. We wandered to Plaza San Francisco de Asis to join a walking tour. Being early, we popped in to Cafe Don Pepe, adjacent to the plaza. This cafe would become our 'go to' cafe. Great coffee and cool (literally) courtyard with lots of shade. The walking tour was great. Our guide spoke heavily accented English very quickly, so missed a lot of the detail but learned enough to understand the basic history and architectural influences. The city was originally inhabited by Taino people who arrived from Venezuala region CE1100. They didnt last long once the Spanish arrived. Imported sicknesses and being worked to death pretty much wiped them out. Spanish occupation, piracy, slave trade to work sugar plantations influenced religion, architecture and culture. The city is built on a hillside with bell towers to use as watch towers for invading pirates. Lavish mansions built in 1700-1800 in the wealth areas around Plaza Mayor (including the infamous Brunet's palace). Most of these have been turned into museums. 

Our guide also pointed out the best places to eat and drink or listen to music.

There is a lot of poverty, and a lot of begging in the streets. This differs from Havana in that, there, you were plied to enter a cafe or shop or purchase something. In Trinidad, it was mainly a tale of woe and a request for money (as well as the above). The story was usually about needing medicine, ointment or baby milk. Having said this, I felt remarkably safe from petty theft here (unlike Havana). This is perhaps related to the warnings we were given by our host in Havana (don't use phone in the street) and the opposite in Trinidad.

Its become increasingly hot and humid since returning to Havana. I can’t  even imagine how hot summer must be. Because I couldn’t  find a laundry yesterday, today's dress is enjoying its 3rd or maybe 4th outing, adding to the 'sticky' factor. We walked along the waterfront to the Museo del Ron, a museum and shop dedicated to Cuban rum. We checked out prices before continuing along the waterfront to the recommended mercardo. It was sweltering before walking into that oven. Hundreds of stalls, all selling variations of exactly the same things: rum, cigars, crochet dresses, garish t-shirts with Che Guivera or 'I love Cuba', jewellery made from shells or seeds/beads, wooden carvings and CUBA number plates. Each stall came with at least one hard (and persistent) sales person and few customers to go around. We walked a quick circuit and hastened outside to the relative comfort of a sea breeze.

We found a cafe to recuperate - a lovely wee place over the road from the market. The highlight was the conversation involving a few english and spanish words and much gesturing, to describe an iced coffee (NOT a frappacino). I was concerned when I heard the blender start up, but it was delicious. 

With a full stomach, we headed back to the rum shop for a rum tasting. How else to decide which one to buy? Lisa purchased 2 bottles to take back to New Zealand. I didn't. No way am I going to schlep bottles of rum around the Amazon! We returned to our apartment to drop off the purchases and research mailing Cuban cigars home. Cigars must be kept within a very small temperature and humidity range.  Without a humidor, they will only last a few days. It was during this research that we learnt that you cannot take Cuban cigars (or rum) back through the US. Both Lisa and I will be returning home via US. What to do with 2 bottles of rum and only one night left in Cuba? 🤔

I'll have a go at posting a cigar directly to New Zealand from Mexico. A labour of love Josh! If it doesn't make it, there's a Cuban cigar shop in Auckland. I'm not above cheating.

After a break in air conditioned luxury, we took a big American car to see the fort on the other side of the river. A tourist 'must do' in Havana. Dinner (using up our last CUP's) and home for packing and an early night.

Our last morning in Havana. We're packed and have a taxi booked for 10.30am this morning. We're sitting on the balcony catching up in emails before we lose the internet again. 

We had to walk further afield to find a coffee in this neighbourhood, winding up at a place with outside tables that we'd been to before. Dogs roam the streets freely, and do their business freely, so keeping a careful eye out is essential. Returning to the apartment, we farewelled our host and climbed into the waiting taxi. The remainder of the day (and night) was travelling or waiting to travel, mostly at airports. Havana airport to MEX airport, MEX to Bogota. Bogota to Quito (pronounced keto). Quito to airbnb via taxi. Lisa and I had a great Mexican nosh up at an airport cafe before she headed to her hotel and I joined an impossibly long queue to check in for flight to Ecuador. Several hours later....

• There are no luggage trolleys at MEX so you have to carry your bags the long distances between gates.

• There are no seats at MEX, so you're doubly tired by the time you board

• Bogota airport (fitingly named Eldorado International Airport) is the gold standard of airports. Luggage trolleys, seats and even reclining seats, and hopping at 4am. 

• Quito airport has trolleys but you have to pay US$2.

• Both Bogota and Quito customs, security and immigration processes are extremely efficient. 

The exciting recount of my day (and night) in airports. Needless to say, I made it, albeit shattered. Spent the day exploring my neighbourhood. Consuelo warned me it would rain. I didn't realise taht when it rains it REALLY rains. Soaked through by the time I got home. Hung everything up to dry and then semi-planned my next few days taking advantage of the good internet. Walking around at 2850m altitude is quite hard work. An early night for me.

I walked to Community Hostel, the starting place for the walking tour. It's about a 30 minute walk from where I'm staying. I very bravely gave my hiking boots an outing today - mainly because my shoes are still wet. I start my first hike in 2 days, so need to get used to wearing them again. We started out at the mercado where we learnt about local produce, where and how grown and what they’re used for. We were able to sample many of the fruits.

From there we walked through the historic centre, the first city in the world to become a UNESCO world heritage site in 1979. We did a LOT of walking, learning about the history, traditions and political and economic history. Highlights: chocolate tour and tasting, sampling of the local drink (55% alcohol), and learning about New Year traditions in Ecuador. One of the many traditions is for young men to dress as widows carrying a baby. Most of the men we saw, were dressed like glamourous young women, not widows!

My plan for today - to use public transport and to visit Casa Museo Guayasamin. I caught the first bus without difficulty (even though the number wasn't displayed and hard to read destination quickly enough). Not so lucky with the second bus. Hopped on the wrong one and was too embarrassed to hop off at the next stop. A long walk back to the bus stop.  The right bus didn't show up. I again walked an long way up steep hills to the museum. Normally, I wouldn't mind the walking but I'm getting puffed walking up a flight of stairs and have a constant headache. I rate myself as pretty fit but this altitude sickness is really affecting me.

I enjoyed the museum - Guayasamin is one of the most celebrated Ecuadorian artists. It was wonderful to see how he lived and originals of some of his work.

I walked back down the hill (much easier going down but still occassionally needing to stop for some deep breaths). Stopped for coffee and cake at a cute neighbourhood cafe on the way. I really enjoy trying to communicate with people. I might be fooling myself but I think they enjoy the novelty too.

Continued down the hill to Parque la Carolina and had a go at navigating the brand new Metro, which opened for the first time on 1 December 2023, just one month ago. It is clean, stylish and popular. Using Google Translate, I asked someone how it worked - I was told to downlad an app. Tricky with no internet. I returned to the park to regroup and met a couple of young tourists who happily shared their Metro experiences. You can buy a single ticket for US $0.45. Unfortunately, I think the local authoriries underestimated demand. The queues were horrendous. Ecuadorians must be the most patient and uncomplaining people. Queues at other metro stations, just to buy a ticket, were all the way up the stairs and at least one block long. Perhaps so close to New Year's eve and a few days holiday, people were pouring into town to buy fireworks and of course yellow panties. Apparently it attracts adventures and prosperity. Not sure what kind of adventures? Anyway, successfully purchased ticket and rode metro to Plaza de San Francisco. Crowds everywhere. I found the church with the gold interior and realised 

I had already been inside. If mistaken (there are so many churches), I found I had lost the appetite for another church. I wondered the streets of the historic centre instead, largely going round in circles, before catcing a Metro back to accommodation.

After a short rest, I hailed a cab and went out for a meal. My first proper meal in Ecuador. I've only had a bowl of traditional soup, (no idea what was in it), a bread roll and  a small plate of salchipapas - a local street food. I really can't leave Quito witout trying something more adventurous.

Taxi home and should be packing but too tired!

A quick taxi to the nearest Metro station. Consuelo encouraged me to walk the 11 minutes, but I was feeling lazy. Metro ride to the most organised bus terminal where I quickly found the right ticket office and was quickly on my way to Latacunga - the base for my first hike at altitude. 

The buses are comfortable, frequent and cheap. The countryside is not unlike NZ. They even have toitoi. I was surprised that it wasn't more rugged (given we're in the Andes) and that one town ran into the next the whole way. I was expecting rural but I guess with a population of 17.8 million in a land area a little smaller than NZ, much of which is jungle or mountain, I shouldn't have been surprised.

Latacunga has a population of 77,000 and like Quito, is surrounded by hills and is at the same altitude. I really like this town. Sunday morning and the centre is empty and all the shops are closed. Church gets out around 1pm and then it comes to life, though many places closed for New Year's eve. It is a very pretty town with lots of churches. People are friendly. It is really safe here in terms of personal safety. It's the first place I've been told it's okay to go out by myself at night. I've really enjoyed exploring freely and without a plan.

Things become increasingly exuberant as the day goes on. The "widows" (young men dressed like prostitutes) stop cars in the street by dancing luridly. They continue until the vehicle's occupants give them money. People dress up, and decorate their vehicles with anything from Superman to goblins. They make effigies of people they don't like (it gets quite political) and later they burn them in the streets, jumping over them.

The fireworks are mad! People letting skyrockets off in the streets. Rocket wars. It is crazy out there! Fortunately, Ecuador doesn't seem to have a drinking culture, so at least they're firing sober..

Unfortunately there are no places that serve alcohol open (can you imagine pubs closed on New Year's Eve in NZ?) otherwise I would have found a spot with a view to sit on a vino and watch the evening unfold. Alas, too crazy out there for me. I will see the new year in from my hostel.

I got my rugged Andes experience today.  The bus went up and up and up. We finally left built up towns behind. Most of the people on the bus were native Ecuadorian women with shawls and hats and skirts and tights. We passed a terrible accident scene - bus versus car 😬. I was of course watching our route using GPS. Everything looked fine,  until we got to Zumbahua, the last sizeable town before Quilitoa. Here the driver and his helper insisted I had to get off the bus. No amount of insisting on my part worked. Someone kindly picked me up and drove me the remaining 15km. No kindness involved. The driver then demanded an exorbitant price for the ride. More than the 2 hour bus ride. I had little alternative but to pay. My first scam? Does the bus driver do this to all gringos? I'm almost over it 😄. 

Used the bathroom (thank goodness I had 25 cents). Checked in at information and then started walking, starting out at just under 4000m altitude.  Stunning vista.

The tramp is not physically challenging.  If it was at sea level, I wouldn't break a sweat.  Flat (and downhill) I could manage okay. Gentle slope - stop every 10-12 steps to catch my breath. Hill, every 5 steps. If I didn't stop, and pushed past the shortness of breath, it felt like I imagine an asthma attack feels. Big laboured breaths and not getting enough oxygen. It was unimaginably scary. Better to go slowly. Fortunately,  I very sensibly chose to do the track the easy way, starting at the highest altitude and the longest day. After an hour or so, I had walked around the crater lake and the track was descending. I met 4 groups coming the other way over the course of the day and maybe 1 solo traveler. They were all struggling. Even the 20 somethings. 

As I was making my way down the hill, a young indigenous family passed me (just after the horse and before the English couple). He had a huge pack  and she had the infant swaddled on her back. What amazed me was that the young woman, dressed in satin skirt, blouse and shawl, the traditional hat and court shoes (with a heel). They came skipping down the hill like it was a regular footpath and quickly disappeared. They must surely walk that track every day?

Pleasant walking down hill. Gorgeous day and beautiful scenery.  Still, warm, quiet. And then the rain came. I opted for a poncho as there was no wind and its longer than my raincoat. I stopped to shelter for a while,  chatting with some kids, before deciding it wasn't going to stop anytime soon, so continued in the heavy rain. Wish I'd opted for shorts. I eventually reached a plateau with a deep valley ahead. Oh no! I had to descend to the valley floor, cross the river and climb up the other side! The track was muddy with the rain, steep and narrow. Cutting grass on both sides, so nothing to hold on to. Really regretting my hiking poles about now. It could be worse. If I'd come the opposite way I'd be climbing up that track. The joke was on me. Made it to the valley floor only to run out of track. I'd taken a wrong turn somewhere. I had to hike all the way back up. I eventually found the right path (at the top of course) which looked more like a goat track. There was a sign but in the heavy rain, I'd missed it. I descended to the valley floor (again) and started up the other side. A much easier track and the rain was now just a gentle drizzle.  By the time I reached the top, the sun was shining again.

My unplanned detour cost me at least an hour and a half and a whole lot of energy. The breathing became easier as I went along, possibly because I'd lost 700m altitude. Despite the rain and the extra hard yards, the scenery was stunning and I'm glad to have done it. With lots of breaks, rain stop, and detour, it took me 6 hours. I was very happy to arrive in Chugchilan, my first stop for the night, arriving just after 4pm. One of the groups recommended the rain forest hostel. It is so comfy. A very hot shower and rest before dinner at 7pm. I hope my boots dry out overnight. There's nothing worse than donning wet boots in the morning. 

Tried not to fall asleep until after dinner- soup, catfish, an ice cream biscuit. Interesting group at my table: a lovely German couple on a year long trip from southern patagonia to Canada. They're travelling in a van called Bruno. A  young Norwegian (or Finland maybe) who is doing a university exchange in Colombia, a mountain climber from colorado and a young woman from california. The latter two the least interesting and the least interested.

The positives of the day - acclimatisation.  I feel really good, even after 6 hours of walking AND I arrived before the rain. The negatives - my poor navigational skills that added an extra hour and a half, at least, on to my day. I'm gonna chalk this up as a win though. If I hadn't gone astray I wouldn't have enjoyed the paths I did take, or the chance encounters on the way. After all, I'm not in a hurry and was always going to make it….just maybe not dry!

I've examined the map in detail and I really can't work out what happened!

Dinner was huge. Soup, chicken stir-fry and banana cake. Even omitting the rice and dessert,  it was too much food. Two German couples, one older and one younger. One French couple. Good conversations. 

Breakfast this morning was equally enormous.  Egg omelette,  bread roll,  fruit salad, cereal and yoghurt.  I opted for the bread and omelette. Again good conversations,  sharing route information and suggestions of where to stay and places to go in galapagos and amazon. Its nice when everyone clicks. I'm first to leave. My map for today hasn't downloaded  so I'm a bit worried but I press on. Sunny again but clearly not going to last.

I make good time and only go astray once, adding maybe 20 minutes on to my time. It also involved a pack of vicious dogs which I had to pass twice as I backtracked. I picked up a stick on the return so at least I had some defence. The rest of the track to Sigchos was uneventful with the exception of a second dog pack that followed me, snarling and growling and rushing in for a nip. Fortunately I'd picked up some stones and the threat of throwing them was sufficient to keep them at bay.

Made it to Sigchos in light drizzle in 3 hours 15 minutes, having departed at 8.15 and arriving 11.30am.  I'm keeping up with the times others have taken, considering my detours. I'm pretty happy with my fitness. Walked to the bus depot and had a lovely encounter with a teenage girl. She wants to go to Korea to see BTS. She's in love with Kim, one of the band, laughing at herself. She was very curious and asked lots of questions about why I was going to Latacunga and how much it would cost to fly to Korea.

I lucked the bus timetable, next departure being at 12.20pm. I love having these conversations.  It makes me realise how much richer this experience would be if I had the language. I've surprised myself with how many words I've managed to retain.

2 plus hours back to latacunga with my eyes closed all the winding way down the Andes. Heavenly shower and clean clothes and I've returned to that lovely cafe for the first good coffee in 3 days. Also a slice of tirimisu. Writing up the day while people watching through the window. Latacunga is a different city when it's a regular working day. It's amazing how many shops and people there are. My mission now is to somehow break a 50 dollar note and buy a snack for the bus as I'll probably forego the complimentary breakfast tomorrow to ensure I make the 8am bus in good time.

Up way earlier than I needed to have been. I like being at the airport in good time but maybe could have had an extra hour in bed. Uber to the airport (<5 minutes)  leaving plenty of time for an exorbitantly priced coffee and croissant and then  more than an hour to twiddle  my thumbs. Spent this time taking advantage of free airport wifi and doing research. I'm really tired of researching every next step. Just over 1 hour flight and turn my watch back one hour.

I walked from the airport to my hostel - a great way to orient myself to the township of  Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, population 8,000. When I arrived at the hostel, the price quoted by Booking.com had doubled. Lots of negotiations later and they agreed to honour the quoted price. Its a satisfactory double room, lounge and kitchen (which I won't use). I went out immediately in search of a cold beer which I found at the waterfront. I was joined by a young man from Bristol whom I'd met in a queue at the airport. He's currently teaching in Brazil and here during their school holidays. The airport was tricky as I didn't have a Galapagos transit card (US$20.00) and had to pay a tourist tax of US$100.00. It's super expensive here. He helped me negotiate these in exchange for the use of my pen to fill in customs declaration.

Next stop, food. A set menu of fish soup followed by rice, salad & some kind of potato pattie with a peanut sauce.

Back to hostel to change into swimsuit. Easy walk to nearest nice beach. Seals frolicking in the water. Fun swimming with them - and a little scary. I think the life guard was there to protect the seals & sea lions rather than us. People can be idiots! Some colourful fish but the school kids (a whole class) were churning up the water so much, visibility was poor.

Shower & change and its beer o'clock. I've drunk more today than I have the whole time in Ecuador. I arrived too late in the day for any tours and there's only so much you can eat. Sitting on a cold beer seemed like a good alternatve. there's really only one road on San Cristobal, which goes to a crater lake, a turtle breeding place and another nice beach. No public transport. I took so long to decide to go to Santa Cruz Island tomorrow, that the 7am ferry (only 2 per day) was full. I purchased a ticket for 3pm, so will check out the lake etc. in the morning.

Walked back to hostel along the waterfront, spotting lots of wildlife on the way. Seals are really noisy! More research: booking accommodation on Santa Cruz, transport for tomorrow, what to do on Santa Cruz. I'm thinking scuba diving.

I woke up today (having had the best sleep in I don't know how long) not knowing what the day would bring. I did a couple of hours of research without making any firm decisions beyond booking accommodation on Santa Cruz Island for the next 3 nights. I am booked on the 3pm ferry to Santa Cruz, which means being on the pier at 2.20. No time to venture too far. I had to check out of hostel at 9am, so I left my luggage at the hostel and wandered into town. I booked a ferry back from Santa Cruz on Tuesday 9th. This might be cutting it fine as my flight leaves at 1pm. As long as the ferry (and by ferry I mean speed boat) doesn't break down, I should be fine 😬. The guy at the booking office didn't have English (and I have next to no Spanish, so could all go to custard). I wonder where that phrase comes from?

Sitting on a bench seat, wondering what to do with the day, I met a lovely couple from Argentina. His name is Mattias (I think). Because I couldn't pronounce her name, it hasn't stuck. I'd seen them both at Playa Mann yesterday. They asked questions about getting around the island (which I knew a lot about having done so many hours of research). They asked if I wanted to share a taxi to Playa Loberia. Of course I said yes. We rented snorkelling gear and piled into a taxi. Only problem that I could forsee, other than it has been raining all morning, is no swimsuit or towel. Never mind - underwear can double.

Leaving our bags on the beach (dodgy move), and donning snorkelling gear, we had a wonderful time seeing so many colourful and enormous fish just a few feet from shore. A really heavy rainshower had us running to find shelter for our bags. This done, I jumped back in - I love snorkelling! That is, until a couple of seals mistook me for their pal and wanted to play. Totally freaked me out. That was enough for me. Threw a coat on and hailed a taxi back to town. Changed and picked up my gear from the hostel and wandered about until ferry time. An interesting process. Water taxis ferried passengers to larger boats moored just off shore. I'm not sure why, as our 'ferry' would have had the same draft as the water taxis. A money making opportunity?

I ran into an English couple while queuing, I'd met on the Quilatoa Loop. Nice to catch up and share experiences, as they'd trampednthe opposite way to me. I also met a nice couple from Switzerland whoe arebtravelling to NZ next. They were happy to give me lots of advice. I was equally happy to give them my phone number for when they come to NZ.

In addition to the ferry ticket, you have to pay the water taxi (both ends) and a tax to land on Santa Cruz (and every other island in the Galapagos). A pleasant 2 hour ride with no sea sickness, though I had prepared by stocking up on lollies.

Although Mattias and wife, and Caroline and Alexander (young Swiss couple) told me that Santa Cruz was their least favourite island, I love it. Arrived, walked to first tour operator and booked 2 tours for the following 2 days. Not the one that I really wanted but thats the price you pay for leaving things to the last minute. I will not get to climb an active volcano in Ecuador. Maybe in Peru? Dropped my washing at a laundromat, found my hostel easily (very central) and went out for dinner (had only eaten a bread roll as I had heard horror stories about the ferry crossing). I'm being picked up at 9am tomorrow for a land based tour of the island.

I had told myself that the food  is such a big part of the cultural experience, that I would eat everything. Meat included. I've been watching Netflix series 'You Are What You Eat', and I'm back to vegetarian/wanna be vegan diet (except for guinea pig - still want to have a try before leaving Ecuador, maybe).

The cost of not doing the research  - a really terrible AND terribly overpriced tour. US$70.00 to take me to a tortoise protection area which I could have taken a bus to for $2.00. I had to pay the entry fee over and above the $70 tour cost. The driver did stop for me to walk through a lava tunnel (which was amazing) and stopped while I had a look at a sink hole. Also, the tortoises are everywhere. on the side of the road, crossing the road, in the paddocks....I didn't need to do the tour at all. I also booked a trip to Isla Isobela with the same outfit tomorrow. Hope I haven't thrown another US$140 away! I guess I'll find out tomorrow. 

On returning from work today's 'tour', I moved hostels, which I had been sad about but now I'm really happy about. The previous place was really central, cheap and staff were really kind and helpful (with some English). This place is further away from things but really, really lovely. Worth the extra money - I’ll  be tired tomorrow night and will appreciate a little bit of luxury.

Having relocated to the new hostel, I went to Playa Tortuga Bay, renting snorkel on the way. Tortuga Bay is about a 4km walk from the town centre. I walked too quickly and perhaps hyper-extended my knee on a downhill. Very painful walk. Hopefully will improve with time and gentke stretching. Made it to the beach on what was a blisteringly hot and humid day. Initially went in at Tortuga Bay but water visibility was poor. Wouldn't be able to spot a shark till it took a bite. I did swim with a small hammerhead shark before going back to the previous surfing beach. Strong under tow and big waves meant not good for snorkelling but Caroline and Alexander, who I ran into again, told me about a relatively deep lagoon which was perfect. Here, a small shark and marine iguana shared my lagoon, along with quite a few pretty fish.

A long walk back. It is now the late afternoon but still too hot for walking. Picked up my laundry, showered in my fancy bathroom and changed into wonderfully clean clothes before venturing out again. This time to try and persuade an ATM to give me some money. I have not had success in Galapagos. To be fair, I withdrew cash in the US and haven't had to use my card since, so it might be just Ecuadorian  banks rather than Galapagos banks. A local gave me some tips and at long last, success. I was down to my last $5 to last 2 days for food and drink otherwise. I stopped to read a menu on  the way back and ran into Caroline and Alexander (again), who were eating at the cafe. We ended up eating a meal together. They must have a bigger budget than me - eating US$20 bowls of spaghetti! I opted for a traditional Ecuadorian soup of sweet potato, corn and cheese served with avocado. Delicious, filling and still twice what I've been spending on a meal at US$9.50. I usually go to a local cafe and eat a set menu which varies daily, for US$5.

Early night as I have a 5.50am start tomorrow morning.

My last day in the Galapagos. Up at 5.30am to be at the wharf for 6.10am. Of course, the minute I leave, it begins tipping it down. Im drenched in seconds and arrive at the wharf literally as though  I'd stood in the shower fully dressed for 20 minutes. Drowned rat.

They have an odd way to organise boat departures. I'm not going to call them ferries anymore as they're speedboats and nothing remotely like a ferry in NZ. There are generally 5 or more boats departing at the same time, 7.00am and 4.00pm. These seat around 25 - 30 passengers each. Everyone is instructed to arrive an hour early. There is no designated place for passengers on each boat to rendezvous. You have to wander around to find the one person for each boat that has a list of passengers for that boat. There is not always any way to identify this person. Once your name is checked off the list, you may or may not be given a boarding pass. Youre then instructed to line up according to which island you’re going to, until called to go through security to make sure you haven’t pocketed an iguana. Then comes the departure tax (or arrival tax depending if youre coming or going). You pay both ends every time you arrive and leave any island. Then you’re guided to line up in groups according to boat name, before being ushered to a waiting water taxi to ferry you to your boat. Its all very chaotic, and as previously mentioned, there is no reason the speedboats themselves cannot moor at the jetty. It seems an exercise in creating job opportunities. You pay US$1 for every water taxi ride to and from boat. There are also soldiers who have their boat lists and you have to be checked by them too. If the police are there, then the skipper ensures everyone wears a life jacket and takes a photo to prove it. No police, no life jackets.

I arrive on my designated boat (The Wolf) and grab a back seat (no windows in the front and it gets very hot - a sure fire recipe for seasickness). The downside of a back seat - you get wet. I'm already saturated, so not a problem. Some 2+ hours later and we arrive at Isla Isabela, pay arrival tax and meet our tour guide. He has a list of names, so just check each list till you find your name. Once Eduardo has rounded up his group (not all on the same boat) we clamber on to yet another boat to take up to a small, low lying volcanic island. We walk around said island in the oppressive heat and learn about the geological origins of the Galapagos, while children dropped from heat exhaustion. Eduardo was very knowledgeable and his English excellent. We saw turtles and white tipped sharks in the water, and of course, seals, lizards and iguana. We also spotted Galapagos penguins, blue footed boobies and pelicans.

Next came snorkelling, with penguins. Pretty cool. One pecked my mask. Great to cool off too. A short bus ride to the only town  on Isabela and hadba traditional lunch. The ubiquitos sweet potato (not sweet at all) soup with queso and avocado. This was followed by seafood stew on rice. The seafood sauce is made from mushed plantains. Actually quite tasty despite the thick, gluggy consistency.

Off to the tortoise breeding station, stopping at a very sad pond to see a handful of flamingo on the way. I would have liked to miss the turtles to stay and watch the flamingo. I wonder why the tortoises are more vulnerable than the turtles, or are efforts to increase numbers because they are endemic and the turtles are not? More on threats to tortoises later.

Back to the wharf and return ferry ride (really rough and jaw breaking). Shower and clean clothes then out for my last meal in Santa Cruz.

Another 5.30am start andnusual ferry chaos and Im on my way back to San Cristobel, taking a risk that nothing will go wrong. I fly back to the mainland at 1pm  today.Made it in good time, enough for breakfast before walking to the airport, arriving too early as usual. Uneventful flight lead to anything but uneventful. As soon as we landed, phones began pinging and news of the announced state of emergency disseminated. No taxis at the airport and advised not to leave, especially me as my hotel was right in the middle of the action and all surrounding roads closed. Three hours later, finally the roads cleared and Im given the all clear to make a dash for the hotel, albeit at 5 times the going taxi rate - danger money!

As soon as I arrived (met on street by manager and bustled indoors) I was advised not to leave the hotel. The manager kindly shared his dinner with me, which I demolished in case its my last for a while. Early night. Too tired to make a plan.

Up early and checking news. No change to travel advice. Travelling by bus to Cuenca is definitely not feasible and given the tenuous situation, getting out of Ecuador altogether is the best decision. Delayed booking a flight till I arrived at the airport incase I couldnt get there. Heavy police presence and vehicle was checked for inciendary devices under the vehicle as well as searched. Made it but by this time, everyone able to leave Guayaquil (pronounced Gway-a-keel), was also booking flights. The cost to fly 2 hours to  Peru was more than it cost me to fly all the way from NZ! The price iofpeace of mind.  A seond hiccup, not discovered till checking in - I cant enter Peru without a ticket out again. A frantic time while I quickly booked another flight. My  flight was again uneventful. Landed safely in Lima. Taxi to Airbnb, rest and then the research begins., venturing out only for a supermarket run to get junk food. A sure sign of stress Flying to Cuzco tomorrow morning. Who knows from there..

No updates for a while. Im leaving iPad behind in Lima, in the interests of travelling light.